With the exception of a couple of years in County Cork, all my summer holidays between the ages of 10 and 18 were spent in and around the once fashionable seaside resort of Folkestone in Kent, on the southeastern coast of England, a handful of miles from the fabled White Cliffs of Dover.
Although there was only one small, and invariably packed, patch of sandy beach along its lengthy seafront (most was pebble and shingle), the magnificent Rotunda amusement arcade, fringed by fairground rides, putting green and boating lake, kept this young boy and his cousins handsomely entertained for two weeks.
And if, in the unlikely event we got bored, there was county cricket at the Cheriton and a testing pitch and putt golf course on the windswept cliffs overlooking the small but bustling harbour, where plates of fresh cockles and whelks were in abundant supply. Finally, there was a daily ferry service to Boulogne in Northern France, though my recollections of a youthful life on the ocean wave have more to do with leaning over the side of the boat than tucking into a full English breakfast in the café.
Folkestone may not have enjoyed the cheeky, “kiss me quick” ambience of Margate or Southend, but I loved its quieter, more refined atmosphere, and have much affection for it still. My parents even spoke on occasion of retiring to the resort but, sadly, it never happened.
The past forty years have seen the town, in common with many other resorts around the British coastline, decline dramatically as a holiday destination as people have taken advantage of greater leisure time and resources to travel further afield. The rotunda and surrounding attractions have been demolished, the lively, cobbled Old High Street that winds up to the modern town centre fallen into disrepair and many of the businesses dependent upon holidaymakers closed.
Gone are the shops selling postcards, beach balls and buckets and spades. Gone are the traditional tea rooms and fish and chip restaurants. And gone is the shop with the big picture window through which children and adults alike gaped in awe at sticks of Folkestone rock being made.
But there are signs that Folkestone is beginning to stir again. The Old High Street has undergone a makeover. One of a kind gift shops, artisanal food stores and galleries have emerged in recent years, along with a burgeoning artistic community. A handful of attractive restaurants have sprung up around town and extensive investment has been forthcoming. There may no longer be any cross-channel services, but the town’s accessibility from London and the rest of Kent has been enhanced by the arrival of a high speed rail service.
The jewel in Folkestone’s crown remains the Leas, once described as “indisputably the finest marine promenade in the world”, a wide clifftop walk with well tended flower beds and glorious views across the channel. On a clear day, you can almost pick out individual buildings on the French coast as you head towards the neighbouring resort of Sandgate. Imposing old hotels speak of the resort’s former glory, no more so than the Grand and Metropole, though some are now holiday apartments.
Despite the loss of the ferry service and crazy golf course, as well as the diminution in the fishing trade, the pretty little harbour and adjoining Stade with its seafood stalls still retain some of the atmosphere that first captivated me fifty years ago.
The arrival of the Turner Contemporary, projected rebirth of Dreamland and high profile exposure on television have given Margate a disproportionate amount of attention in recent years. And that really ought to bear fruit in time. Broadstairs and Whitstable, with their attraction for more affluent Londoners, are already bucking the trend of decline.
But the Guardian newspaper’s recent rating of Folkestone as one of the world’s best holiday destinations in 2014 may serve to redress the balance somewhat. Those heady days of the past will never return, but Folkestone is showing signs that it may have a future.
Now, if they could only rebuild the Rotunda and resume playing county cricket there ………….
My bro Roger is a practising architect in Folkstone and is heavily involved in redevelopment. It’s changing rapidly.
That’s more good news, Tim! Thanks for the feedback.
Once saw Barrington hit 150 ( most of it in the morning) and had a brief coaching lesson from MC Cowdrey at the Folkestone Cricket ground.
In my later years holidaying in Folkestone, I used to spend the whole of county cricket week at the ground, never missed a ball! My one playing experience was not so enjoyable – I was out first ball and it was a long walk back to the pavilion!
There is a lot of money being invested in the redevelopment of Folkestone – the Old High Street is now designated the ‘Creative Corner’ (hosting mainly galleries and art focused shops) plus there are good restaurants opening (Blooms and Rocksalt being but two excellent examples). Now, if Folkestone Council can stop Central Government using the town as a place to home immigrants (because it’s cheaper than other options) then Folkestone will really take a giant leap forward…
Yes Pete, the scourge of most of the resorts on the Kent coast. We plan to go again in the spring – perhaps we can take the opportunity to meet up and eat at Rocksalt as you have suggested before. We saw Blooms and liked the look of it.
It’s called the ‘Creative Quarter’ and includes The Old High Street, Tontine Street and Payers Park, a unique regeneration project, I believe. I live there and have a shop (best in Folkestone). The whole area was a real cutting-throat sort of ghetto (I have been told). The Creative Foundation, an Arts charity, “has given unused properties a new lease of life, restoring them into contemporary spaces that now house diverse shops, cafés and creative businesses”. We have taken the challenge to open our Home and Lifestyle boutique in Tontine Street, the less attractive street in the Quarter. WIthout the Creative Foundation, we would never have been in the position of opening our own shop… it’s a real rollercoaster but we are surviving and things are on the up. Do come, have lunch at Rocksalt and visit Anecdotes Design, a few yards away from the harbour… just follow the chairs!
Thanks Barbara! We are planning on coming down to Folkestone again in early September and will certainly check you out! I’ll confess that we have tended to avoid Tontine Street in recent times (it was buzzing in the sixties when I visited as a child), but it is good to hear that it is picking up too on the back of the creative regeneration of the town. Thanks again. Regards Tony
Beginning of September is perfect timing, the Triennial will have just started and there will be at least 5 Art works on Tontine Street, one of which just next to Anecdotes. Yoko Ono will have a piece at the Quarter House (in the same street), a very interesting Venue for comedy, music, film and theatre events. Other places to check out in Tontine Street are Ampersand Design Café and Beano’s vegeterian restaurant. Find out more about the many quirky businesses in the Old Town on http://www.folkestoneoldtown.com/
Things are definitely on the up and Londoners are liking it! See you in September. Regards. Barbara.
Will do!
I grew up in Folkestone – my parents ran small hotel when people still holidayed here and it was a clean, attractive place with plenty to do on a modest budget. Since my return I have felt the occasional glimmer of hope – but hope we don’t just swing back to catering for the wealthy diners. did we. once have three cinemas?
Hi Sue. Yes, that is the danger of regeneration – that the resulting configuration is designed only for those with money. I’m hopeful that Folkestone can still attract the sort of families that once stayed at places like your parents’ hotel, indeed like mine did back in the sixties and seventies. There was plenty of evidence of that when we visited last Sunday. The Leas and East Cliff (sorry, Sunny Sands) areas should be able to complement each other.
A mention of August 4th event would be good.
Very interesting comments: We have decided to buy our week end retreat in Folkestone and we just completed last week. I have to say that we fell in love purely by mistake after reading an article in the press 2 years ago. It is indeed an hidden gem with with a somehow bad reputation. After a friend told us that we would be pleasantly surprised we decided to drive from London for a day trip and really enjoyed the area (Harbour, Leas, Old town etc.). Despite being slightly run down you can feel that people are trying their best to inject life in Folkestone. After a year of week ends visit we decided to find a place in the West End to relax from the stress of London (and stupid prices). I am glad we did it now because it seems that more and more Londoners like us have decided to do the same after all the recent coverage about the city (especially Rocksalt). We work in the retail design and for an Art auction house and we hope to get involve now in the community to give Folkestone the place it deserve.
Thanks Fred. Absolutely agree with your comments. And I hope you have many wonderful times in your new home! Regards Tony